streamlined wires (The other method) for Jamo

bobs_buckles · 25 October 2009, 01:35 AM

Hello all,
Please take a look at the image below.
It shows the simple method of running pre-stretched fishing line through round nose pliers. The end result is flat flying wires that can be manipulated.

I cannot take credit for this method, I'm just showing you the results. It came from a lovely chap in the good 'ole US of A going by the name of Paddy (Top bloke

)

I hope this helps many dromers

God bless,
Bob Von Streamlined

Galloway · 25 October 2009, 07:37 AM

Bob,

Thanks for the information! Very Very Good Stuff ! And thanks to Paddy also!

Ken

jamo · 25 October 2009, 02:32 PM

Thanks for posting this technique. Not sure the monofilament would address the issue however.

For my LVG build I used stainless steel wire from Smallparts and attached it using PVA white glue. After a few days some of the wires had bows in them, perhaps from handling the model and having the dried PVA glue stretch a bit. Maybe the answer would be to use CA glue instead of PVA glue?

I'm wary of 'fogging' with CA glue - I've had a white 'bloom' around the glue area. Do all CA glues do this or are some worse than others? Hard to fix on the LVG - you need to spot decal with appropriate lozenge colours.

I've got all Radu Brinzan's various RAF streamlined wires in PE (and they are excellent!). Maybe the answer is to find a non-foging CA glue and use this on the PE wires.

Happy Modelling
James

StephenLawson · 25 October 2009, 06:33 PM

Greetings James,

I only use CA. I never have any concens about white frost. Usually of course this is due to humidity. Usually an application of clear laquer clears up the bloom.

The weight of the stainless is what bows it. It has to be roughed up on the tips so that the adhesive will grab the ends. For me the ends have to go through the wing. Then after thorough drying you can use a carbide wheel in a motor tool to grind it down. Of course you don't want to apply the lozenge to the wing surfaces where the cutting / grinding is done. After your finished then gloss the wing then apply the lozenge.

Galloway · 25 October 2009, 06:43 PM

James,

Another trick you may want to give a go, on a piece of scrap first! is a drop or two of Future from the tip of a paint brush on your frosted area...once dry you can come back with a flat coat of your choice....this has worked for me in the past!

Ken

beeza · 26 October 2009, 01:03 AM

Hi James.

I always use CA when fixing my rigging. I go halfway through the top wing, fix all the rigging, then drill all the way through the bottom wing, install each rigging wire, add a small amount of weight then a drop of CA. On the rare occasion that fogging occurs and small dab of clear lacquer or enamel will fix the problem.

Des.

PS. On my 1/32 Roden Dh-2 I had 44 lengths of rigging wire hanging from the top wing when I mounted it to the struts, then I had the tedious job of running each one through the corresponding holes in the bottom wing, all good fun though.

jamo · 26 October 2009, 02:46 AM

You've convinced me that CA is the answer. Thanks for the responses.

Happy Modelling
James

Catfish · 26 October 2009, 04:24 AM

Hello,
from my experience the white "bloom" only appears if you used too much of Cyanacrylate, you really do not even need a small drop visible at the end of a needle, but much less ! I am building one of those brass and wood models (1 : 48), and apart from soldering with a special "cream" being warmed up, this CA is the only thing you can use.
Good luck,
Catfish