Material request: to simulate RAF streamline flying wires

rjray · 15 March 2011, 10:33 PM

I'm planning to build a WNW Sopwith Pup in the near future. In a recent email exchange with someone there at WNW, I asked what they recommended for RAF streamline flying wires, the wires that are oblong in cross-section. On the instruction sheets, the wires are called out as having a 0.1mm by 0.3mm cross-section.

Anyway, the fellow at WNW recommended elastic pyjama cord from Sullivans International (link: Sullivans International Pty Ltd). However, they only sell to businesses, not to individuals.

Does anyone know where I can mail-order this material? Or failing that, what would be a good substitute in 1/32 scale?

All help appreciated...

Randy

maxfinn · 16 March 2011, 08:29 AM

Radu Brinzan has sets of etched RAF wires and end connectors out:

1/32 : RB Productions Store, Scale models and accessories by Radu Brinzan

Scroll down the page to the "streamline wire" listings.

Radu's service is excellent and the wires have gotten good reviews. Be warned though, the end connectors are VERY tiny, and being as thought they aren't cylindrical, don't really represent the real connectors well. Looking at photos, I'm pretty convinced that the most realistic way to depict the terminal fittings is to super glue a piece of flexible wire into one end of a small piece of appropriately sized micro tubing (either brass, aluminum or steel) and use that wire to secure the tubing to the model at both ends of the wire, then cut the wire just a bit longer than the span between the tubing, and slip the ends of the wire into the tubing.

You may come up with a better option though!

Mike

JohnReid · 16 March 2011, 08:35 AM

Hi Randy ! Welcome to the Drome !

gcn · 16 March 2011, 08:45 AM

That looks very similar to something I bought called Knit in elastic, in fact it actually says that on the link.

I could never get it to thread through my turnbuckles so I reverted back to 2lb fishing line.

I suggest doing a search for Knit in elastic and there should be plenty of hits to go at.

tartle · 16 March 2011, 11:33 AM

Randy,
I have been plucking up the courage to build the WNW Pup (N6453, Beardmore built 9901a Type, HMS Furious, S-Cdr E.H. Dunning, July-August 1917- on their site) but I confess that I haven't modelled for 40 years and the standard has gone up (and the scale). maybe if you can chronicle your build I can stand on the shoulder of giants?
The idea above to use a flattened tube as a basis seems to be a good one though. Wonder if you could use aluminium from a beverage can and extrude the shape? The aluminium is is so pure that it shapes well.

elarson · 16 March 2011, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxfinn

Radu Brinzan has sets of etched RAF wires and end connectors out:

1/32 : RB Productions Store, Scale models and accessories by Radu Brinzan

Scroll down the page to the "streamline wire" listings.

Radu's service is excellent and the wires have gotten good reviews. Be warned though, the end connectors are VERY tiny, and being as thought they aren't cylindrical, don't really represent the real connectors well. Looking at photos, I'm pretty convinced that the most realistic way to depict the terminal fittings is to super glue a piece of flexible wire into one end of a small piece of appropriately sized micro tubing (either brass, aluminum or steel) and use that wire to secure the tubing to the model at both ends of the wire, then cut the wire just a bit longer than the span between the tubing, and slip the ends of the wire into the tubing.

You may come up with a better option though!

Mike

I plan on getting some of Radu's wires for my WNW RE.8 and Pup, but am uncertain as to which ones to get.

Would someone please explain to this rookie the difference between the 9/32BSF, 1/4BSF, 2BA, and 4BA wires? Other than the width, that is.

Thanks,
Eric

maxfinn · 16 March 2011, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elarson

I plan on getting some of Radu's wires for my WNW RE.8 and Pup, but am uncertain as to which ones to get.

Would someone please explain to this rookie the difference between the 9/32BSF, 1/4BSF, 2BA, and 4BA wires? Other than the width, that is.

Thanks,
Eric

Eric,

I'm not exactly an expert, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express, but I think the difference is only size. I've seen a couple of folks suppose that 2 and 4 BA were round wires, but I don't know that I'm "buying" that. I got the wire sizes I need for the Pup from the Datafile, and I'm pretty sure that the wires supporting the tail sections for instance are 2BA and all the pictures I've seen show Streamlined wires there too. The only stuff that is round cross section is the actual control wires, and those have to be flexible to make turns, so a rod type wire wouldn't work there.

As for which ones to get, I know the required sizes for the Pup are in a rigging chart in the Datafile, and I'm sure it must be for the RE.8 as well. And you can always do what I did and just order them all!

Mike

rjray · 16 March 2011, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elarson

I plan on getting some of Radu's wires for my WNW RE.8 and Pup, but am uncertain as to which ones to get.

Would someone please explain to this rookie the difference between the 9/32BSF, 1/4BSF, 2BA, and 4BA wires? Other than the width, that is.

Thanks,
Eric

According to this diagram that I found: Wingnuts RNAS Sopwith Pup :: Rigging picture by Jamo_kiwi - Photobucket

...the Sopwith Pup uses both 1/4BSF and 2BA. The diagram shows which are used where. However, even in 1/32 I think you would be hard-pressed to see the difference between the two. I would prefer to find a source for the knit-in elastic, and just use that (which is what the guys at WNW use).

Randy

albatros1234 · 16 March 2011, 10:49 PM

i know guys that have tryed the photoetch flat wire and they are a headache, the guy says first off you have to rig the plane as it sits, you cant flip the plane over and rig it because when you put it right side up again it sags, also youattach one, then do another and unless you are VERY careful they consecutive lines put the other ones slack. the ones i know who tryed, took em off and rigged with monofilament.
i have heard of a guy(cant remember where) that used some of those round nose pliers and pulled 4lb test monfilament thru which flattened it. i just use round mono, ta hell with it. if you build a nice model and do a nice rigging job the few who even know what brit aerodynamic rigging wire is wont care.cheers and good luck with whatever you choose to do.....scott

stevedrew · 17 March 2011, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gcn

That looks very similar to something I bought called Knit in elastic, in fact it actually says that on the link.

I could never get it to thread through my turnbuckles so I reverted back to 2lb fishing line.

I suggest doing a search for Knit in elastic and there should be plenty of hits to go at.

Another term for this product is "Shiring elastic", but it seems to me to be just circular in cross-section, not "flattened" or "aerodynamic" at all. Have you looked at EZ Line?

Steve