DH2 rib stitching

chrisp · 23 October 2010, 03:06 PM

Hi, I am building a 1/4 scale R/C DH2 and would like to know what pattern the rib stitching was on the aircraft, any illustrations/info would be much appreciated, thanks

bristol scout · 24 October 2010, 03:28 PM

Hi chrisp,

I think 3" spacing on all surfaces that were not in direct prop. wash (which were half that spacing) but this was probably not applicable to the DH2 as it was of course a pusher. Though the tail surfaces might have come under this tighter spacing.

What are you using to cover her Chrisp?

Cheers,
Dave.

Dan_San_Abbott · 24 October 2010, 05:44 PM

Hi Chrisp:
RFC rib stitching requirements for small scouts (DH2 category) was pitched at a maximum of not more than 2 inches. Larger aircraft not more the 3 inches.
Blue skies Chrisp,
Dan-San

chrisp · 24 October 2010, 10:33 PM

Hi, Dave I am covering it with antique solartex. Do either of you have a drawing of the stitching pattern as I wish to replicate this under the rib tape? thanks

bristol scout · 25 October 2010, 01:44 AM

Hi Guys,

Thanks Dan-San for correcting me on that----I SHOULD have remembered better as I did it three times in 1/3rd. scale (practical scale Toni Clarke Pup, and Mick reeves Pup and Camel)

I just pulled out my Camel plans (remains) and you are, of course, correct.

Are you 'stitching' or 'simulating' Chrisp?

Knots on the top, 'lines' on the lower surfaces chrisp. Do you know the 'rip' technique for tapes to simulate the frayed edges?

Cheers,
Dave.

chrisp · 26 October 2010, 09:41 PM

Hi Dave, I will be simulating the stitching. I have seen a couple of stitching line pictures which show the various ways in which the stitching was done, one would result in a lump showing through the stitching, the other more of a line either across the tape (90 degrees) or parallel with the edge, what would be correct for the DH2 and when you say line on the bottom do you mean at 90 degrees or parallel to the edge of the tape?

Finally I am aware of the rip for vreating the edge of the tape, what do you use to rip it?

thanks for you input and advice
Regards
Chris

bristol scout · 27 October 2010, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisp

Hi Dave, I will be simulating the stitching. I have seen a couple of stitching line pictures which show the various ways in which the stitching was done, one would result in a lump showing through the stitching, the other more of a line either across the tape (90 degrees) or parallel with the edge, what would be correct for the DH2 and when you say line on the bottom do you mean at 90 degrees or parallel to the edge of the tape?

Finally I am aware of the rip for vreating the edge of the tape, what do you use to rip it?

thanks for you input and advice
Regards
Chris

Hi Chris,

The 'bumps' are knots-----when I simulated, I did it this way (there are loads of ways) but this one worked for me over many years.

The 'lines' (as you say, 90 degrees to edge of tape) are on the undersurfaces and I 'mass produced them.

The Solartex RIPS one way easily---and REFUSES the other way, so you cannot go wrong (can't remember if it's 'warp' or 'weft)

Make a small cut (when you ascertain which way it tears) to get you started, then just tear away, straight downwards ----and very fast--it tears easily and DEAD straight. In truth it will foul up now and again but very few and far between if you tear quickly and firmly....wonderful subtle (so subtle) but try it against a 'cut' tape to see the difference Chris.

SO----

Lay a sheet of Solartex down on a board (with nails hammered in down both sides at 1/2" spacing --the pitch of the stitches) still with backing on (but 'right side up') ---stretch thread around nails running across the board and fabric, from nail to nail, and lightly run thin super glue where thread touches fabric--all the way across. When dry, CUT down in 1/8" strips, and apply by iron to rib positions on undersides. Ready made, and evenly spaced

Then make small cuts in fresh fabric (after ascertaining which way 'rips') at 1/2" spacing , the 'cuts' just to get the ripping process started----then just tear down the length you need----easy, DEAD straight tapes with a subtle 'frayed' edge.
These tapes are IRONED, then CLEAR DOPED to the undersurface rib positions, over the top of the 'stitches'---the 'lines' of stitching being perfectly matched, now covered with a frayed edge 'tape' and done in no time (once all the 'prepping' is done). Clear dope will not stick Solartex to Solartex without ironing on first, but it does seal the edges, and NOTHING looks or smells quite like it---depending on what type of engine of course...

I always used to clear dope over antique Solartex-----and, as it happens, ALWAYS covered undersurfaces with modelspan tissue first to give increased opacity.

That does the lowers---For the uppers, I applied the thin cut tapes as above, with a simple stretch of thread super glued (or doped) CHORDWISE, L.E. to T.E. next. Then I applied P.V.A. 'blobs' with a hyperdermic needle at the correct 'pitch' (1/2" for your scale)---dropping a TINY drop of super glue onto each 'blob'.

When fully dry, cut a tiny slit at 1/2" marks (checking you have the right fabric orientation to allow the 'rip') in fresh fabric and tear down your upper tapes, IRONING and finally doping these over the lined and 'knotted' upper narrow tape.

IF you wish (in case you don't know of it), a company called RED ROCKET does self adhesive ready made LOWER tapes---or they used to----but I have never tried them.

Sorry to be so long winded Chris.

Dave.

EDIT, Whose plans Chris, I once bought Pete Neates plans at 1/5th. scale, but never got 'round to doing it---though that would have been at least thirty years ago I seem to think.

chrisp · 28 October 2010, 10:00 AM

Hi Dave

I like the sound of this method, great stuff, thanks for your advice. In regards to putting a small drop of super glue onto the blob of PVA, is that while the PVA is still wet or do you wait for it to dry?

As regards the plan, it is by Alan Morgan, he did have a website (alanmorgandesigns.co.uk) which I originally purchased it from, but alas is no more, he had some other designs also. Unforetunately I have lost contact with Alan so if you know his contact details I would much appreciate them.

Are you building anything at the moment and whereabouts in the UK are you, I am an 'ex pom' now living in New Zealand

Chris

bristol scout · 28 October 2010, 12:49 PM

Hi Chris,

Super glue 'drop' either when wet or just going 'off' --is really not mandatory but helps stop the PVA 'spreading--which it tends not to do really. Belt & braces sort of

No, I don't build anymore in the 'big' scales, or, indeed, flying models.

Started with Free Flight in the very early 60's, then single channel and so on----but the sheer expense and time on these big beauties is too much for me now----I really was (for a time our house was like Canbury Park road) too wound up in them, and never really enjoyed flying them because of nerves...

One reason why I don't 'look in' on that side of things here---I might be tempted (it does'nt take much, as I bet you know) and only came across yours as it is here and not in ' flying models'

Don't know Alan I'm afraid-----and I'm in Newcastle---with the huge 'Town Moor' (of Hoppings fame) on my doorstep almost Chris.

But it has been a long time, and (glad to say) I feel no 'itch' in the fingers, but I always, from very young, LOVED the smell of Dope

Cheers mate,

Dave.

PupCam · 1 November 2010, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisp

Hi Dave
As regards the plan, it is by Alan Morgan, he did have a website (alanmorgandesigns.co.uk) which I originally purchased it from, but alas is no more, he had some other designs also. Unforetunately I have lost contact with Alan so if you know his contact details I would much appreciate them.
Chris

Hi Chris,

Alan was an old club mate of mine a few years back. He unfortunately stopped producing plans when he and Trevor Tabour lost interest in R/C and moved back in to control line flying. Great shame as he (and Trevor) are excellent modellers. His Vimy was excellent - he designed and built it in the incredible time of 4 months! (Takes me that long to study a plan). His SPAD A2 was intriguing too - what a strange arrangement! Great view up the front but I wouldn't fancy being the observer.

I haven't got his contact details now although I did bump into him at Old Warden earlier in the year. It might be worth searching round some of the carrier deck and scale control line websites, you never know although, as I mentioned, he's given up on selling plans etc.

HTH

Alan