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Old 3 October 2007, 12:36 PM   #1
bobs_buckles
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I've carved a prop...

Hello all,
I spent some time today trying my hand at carving my own propeller for my up (and slowly) coming Pfalz DIII.
Earlier in the week I had glued (with PVA glue) and clamped 7 layers or veneer is easy to work blocks. I gave them 2 days to dry.

My first attempt was binned due to the pitch of the propeller being way out of bonk. My second go at it (see pictures) was showing signs of baring fruits.
I need two things to progress onto a third attempt. A UK based supplier of hardwood veneer, any ideas in this department? And the best wood glue for laminating. I need a clue that when sanded doesn't leave a white mark... Help appreciated in both areas would be very very nice.







What do you think?
Am I carving up the wrong tree

Bob
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Old 3 October 2007, 02:57 PM   #2
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i think that is very cool!!
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Old 3 October 2007, 03:04 PM   #3
JohnReid
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Very nice! I can't help you with a supplier.I used Midwest cherry,walnut and maple.Ordinary carpenters white glue works well when using hardwood and it is well clamped for a minimum size glue joint.You can also add black acrylic paint to the glue or use a very thin layer of black paper glued to each layer of veneer.

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Old 3 October 2007, 03:17 PM   #4
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Nope, I'd say you were on the right track there Bob.

I was in at the Local Mega hardware the other day buying timber to make a jig for scratch building wings (bending the under camber) and I saw sheets of Iron-on veneer (all sorts of timber). I think that should be apropriate as the glue is a resin type. And it should be widely available as well. If my local mega hardware (Bunnings) has it then a real hardware will definitely have it.

I hesitate to give tips, as they may be seen as criticism, and truly, anyone who even attempts to hand carve a prop is to be commended. So please take the following as constructive. It is certainly meant that way.

1. Concentrate more on the plan profile. Get that right first and then worry about the Pitch carving.

2. drill the centre hole as the next step. Use your number 11 to create the camber around the boss area.

3. Now carve the pitch on the back face of both blades. finish that completely before you start on the front face.

It is interesting to see how the demarcations between the laminations have developed.



Keep going, you are doing great.

Cheers,

Hugh
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Old 3 October 2007, 03:32 PM   #5
bobs_buckles
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Hugh,
Thanks for the great advice.
Can you explain more about plan profiling in step 1?
I am more than happy to hear it and do not see it as criticism.
With time and a little effort I hope to be as proficient as you.

Many thanks.
Bob
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Old 3 October 2007, 06:05 PM   #6
StephenLawson
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Practice makes perfect.
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Old 3 October 2007, 06:10 PM   #7
StephenLawson
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Here is my original instruction sheet from modeler Bob Horton.
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Old 3 October 2007, 06:12 PM   #8
StephenLawson
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Here are a couple of modern replicas.

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Old 3 October 2007, 08:01 PM   #9
MerlinV
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hi Bob,

Steves instructions above are almost exactly what I was trying to describe.
I will try to put together a photo Tutorial and post it here.

Cheers,

Hugh
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Old 3 October 2007, 08:15 PM   #10
TJ Mulcahy
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Looks pretty sweet Bob!!!
 
 

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