SPAD progress

[Butch]

I recently made some progress on my Hisso which is half of my SPAD 7 project. I have a friend who has a similar model engine in his garage. His water pump was originally one of several raw castings my pump was from. My pump is pictured here.



My friend has a neighbor with two Bridgeports in his garage and has been a machinist for fifty years. This is what he made from the castings.

[Butch]

In side view.





Once again I am posting pictures of someone else's work but it is still progress. Third child is due next month.
Pete

[William]

Hello Pete,
Nice work on the pump. Congrats on the new addition, somebody has to act as ground crew.
Best,
William

[Yeoman]

Any progress is still progress Butch!
Thanks for the postings of that beautiful piece of machining. Its nice to see some SPAD pictures once more.

I see you will be a busy man in other ways next month

[Butch]

The engine project I have was made by Wright Martin around 1919. It is a dry sump Hisso. As such, the oil system is different than more common types. It has two suction pumps that drain the case at the front and rear, and a supply pump. All three are built into one unit that bolts under the rear of the case.



The mounting flange can be seen here just beneath the magneto mounts.

Mounted beneath the oil pump was the water pump. There is a small tripod type of stand-off, not unlike the plastic thing that keeps a pizza box from collapsing onto the pizza. The shaft that drives the oil pump carries through and drives the water pump.

Now for the reason I am posting all of this. I have three oil pump housings and all three have had the water pump stand cut off. I have no idea why. My machinist friend said he would try to reconstruct the mount. Before sending the pumps to Florida I decided to clean eighty years of crud from them. Just before submerging them in carburetor cleaner, my friend in Orlando had stopped me. At his suggestion I bought two gallons of clear, unscented Tide detergent at the grocery store. I left the pump to soak for a week.

[Butch]

After seven or eight days, I pulled it out, ran it under warm water, and the gunk fell off. Little if any scrubbing was required. The aluminum was very bright, the steel parts looked like a clean gun barrel, and the copper parts gleamed. Gears that have not turned in decades are now free.








Anyway, I had never heard of using Tide to clean parts. But it sure beats the kids playing in a bucket of carburetor cleaner.

In the last picture above you can see the three stumps of the water pump bracket and the drive shaft hole, just beneath the copper inserts.

Pete

[jumpinjan]

Was that at full strength, or slightly diluted? The Tide would probably save any paint or markings too, then the carb cleaner? Carb cleaner is getting hard to find on the shelves anymore.
Jan

[Butch]

Jan,
Full strength. And cleanup is non-toxic. The detergent in the picture above was clear before the parts were submerged. My friend Keith told me that it cleans at the molecular level and that ferris parts will rust quickly. I sprayed with WD40.
Pete

[jumpinjan]

WD40 is good.
I found out the hard way that 30W oil doesn't protect iron. I'm thinking now that motor oil attacks moisture (more than repelling it), so don't coat fresh cylinder walls with motor oil.
Jan

[baldeagle]

Originally Posted by Butch

ferris parts

Are you making a carnival ride???

Or did you mean ferrous?

and where does the GPS go?