Acrylic model paints

[StephenLawson]

Greetings all;

I had a request offline from a modeler who is unfamiliar with the use of model acrylics. I am providing my response here for your additions or as a help.

Certainly you can shoot acrylics on raw plastic but the paint is not "hot" enough to bond without the plastic having some "tooth". Lightly sanding (with 600 grit) the item you want to cover always ensures success. Otherwise it can possibly chip of or be scratched off with just a finger nail. Keeping the airbrush from clogging is a constant concern. Use blue tinted windshield wiper fluid (the tint does NOT effect the paint colour) as a thinner. Keep a cotton swap in a clean bottle cap of this wiper fluid. Shaking acrylics in the bottle only creates air bubbles. Stir your paint. I tend to use both on a project. Clean up is easy and I use Testors Model Master airbrush thinner for enamels. Testors does have dry paint remover but I seem to have an allergic reaction to its fumes. Guess that makes me a 2%-er.
All the best Stephen

[Familyman]

When I changed to acrylics, I had this problem of the paint peeling off with masking tape. I got some very valuable tips from my fellow modelers: 1.) clean greasy fingerprints off the model before painting, 2.) "Fortify" the paint with 10-20% of Future 3.) weaken the masking tape before use by sticking it first to a plastic sheet or even to a piece of glossy paper. I've done well with these tips. With your fine touch, Stephen, I'm sure that sanding the model all over is OK, but for a clumsy fellow like me it would be saying goodbye to all the finer details.

Mikko

[Mr_Flibble]

I've switched over from enamel to acrylics (Citadel Colours) when I got into Games Workshop games. I don't use it in airbrushes though. I know about it clogging up the works!

Degrease the model with a normal detergent. Be careful not to use one with those handprotective oils.
I always use an Undercoat in either white or black spraypaint (depends on what shade of colour I'm painting over it). Acrylics stick better to the undercoat than to the bare plastic or metal.
And as mentioned above, I always stick my maskingtape to another surface before sticking it on the model. I found that out by accident when I wanted to cut the tape into a particular thickness.
Depending if it's a display model or a gaming model I'll give it a coat of matt spray-on varnish (Games Workshop calls the stuff "Purity Seal").


Good luck with building your kit,


Rick

[JohnReid]

Use thinned gesso as an undercoat.Cheers! John.

[StephenLawson]

Originally Posted by Mr_Flibble

"...Degrease the model with a normal detergent. Be careful not to use one with those handprotective oils...Rick"

The very reason I use antibacterial hand soap to wash each tree of the kit before beginning. I airbrush using latex gloves that can be purchased at any pharmacy.

[John Masters]

I'm currently building an Ansaldo Balilla from HitKit and used the MisterKit Dark Italian CDL for the wings. I must say that this time the paint went on as it should, with only one coat needed!

From the Factory on the hill,
John

[Romani]

The best way of cleaning kits from the factory grease and any fingerprints is to use a shaving brush and simple soap. Rinse, and then let it dry for a long time, a minuscule water droplet can ruin your paint job.

Acrylics do not cling well to plastic. Even Tamiya ones. So you either spray paint the model with primer, or be prepared to give several coats. The good thing of the thin coat is that detail is not lost.

Also, beware of what spray varnish you use. Citadel Purity Seal and others I have found that dissolve paint, decals, and plastic if you spray enough of it. Do not touch it and let it dry well before spraying on top or applying decals.

[NeilE]

Originally Posted by Romani

Also, beware of what spray varnish you use. Citadel Purity Seal and others I have found that dissolve paint, decals, and plastic if you spray enough of it. Do not touch it and let it dry well before spraying on top or applying decals.

Romani;

It may be that the Citadel spray varnish is lacquer based. I have experienced the same phenomena with Gunze spray varnish which is lacquer based. The lacquer finish as it dries, is a 'hot' chemical reaction, and the more fragile acrylics, future, decals, and rarely enamels, will orange peel during the reaction. Usually the compatibility formula is L-E-A to avoid this rather unpleasant phenomenom. (I recently had a summer scheme Stormovik that had to be turned to a white winter scheme after this happened. The matt lacquer varnish reacted with the future over the enamels and orange peeled the lot - most disturbing!)

HTH

Cheers

Neil

[Lufbery]

Hi all,

I've been using Testors Model Master Acryl acrylics with great success. I've come across a few tips that have helped me, that I haven't seen mentioned above:

* Put a drop or two of dishwashing detergent in a new bottle of paint. It helps break the surface tension, which in turn helps the paint flow better.

* Thin the paint to the consitency of milk. I use the Testors brand thinner, but other substances (as noted above) seem to work pretty well for people.

* I prime my models with a spray enamel. I use Testors rattle can light grey. (No, I don't get kickbacks from Testors ).

I find that the acrylics cure pretty quickly, and I've not had trouble masking over paint that had dried for an hour or so. The paint is very hard after a couple of days.

Regards,

[ChrisSavaglio]

Another way to keep the paint from drying on the airbrush tip is to use airbrush lubricant. It's sold at art stores that carry airbrushes and you coat the needle and any other moving parts in the airbrush with. I've found o-rings last longer, the trigger is more consistent and so long as I oil the needle every few airbrush sessions, the paint doesn't dry on the tip. Since you're only thinly coating the needle, it doesn't affect the paint at all.

Chris