More on Roden Night Lozenge decals

[Lufbery]

Hi all,

Steven Perry posted some photos in a previous thread of the Roden decals he has applied to a Gotha kit he's working on. The pictures he posted were small, so I offered to help post the large photos. Here they are, with a write-up of his technique for applying them.

Steven writes:

Roden Night Loz decals.

I decided on the following recipe. First I sprayed a liberal coat of clear decal film on the sheet. When the decal film dried, I sprayed a coat of clear future on the sheet and let that set up well in a dust free area, (Under the box top).

I applied the decals to a Futured styrene surface that had dried well. This is important as the decal wants to come unstuck from bare styrene. When the decal had dried and been trimmed, (these decals really like a new blade, but not for long...), I applied a little Micro Sol where needed.

The reason you don't want to pre-tint the decals is that a little too much solvent will melt the Future on the decals. If this is tinted, you get a mess. The clear Future will melt if it hasn't cured several hours or if you lay on a puddle of solvent and let it set. Several light applications of solvent is preferable to re-creating Noah's flood.

After setting solution operations were done, I touched up the edges with Prussian Blue paint. Finally I sprayed successive light coats of Future tinted with equal amounts of Prussian Blue and Black. You want it fairly dark in the bottle. I used about 4 drops each into about a half ounce of Future. It made it dark, but did not noticeably thicken the Future.

The rib tapes require no treatment as they are a bit thin and tone right down when applied to the lozenged surface. They must be cut individually, but be sure to trim them even at the ends first to avoid a clear "tab" at each end.

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[Ross_Moorhouse]

WOW the treated roden loze looks real good. Thanks guys for this tip.