Put the wraps on the German SPAD

Red Ruffensore · 6 February 2004, 01:43 PM

Finished up this one today. Former TOKO mold and a real fragile kit. Getting the top wing on and aligned was an acheivement even for a crusty old rigger like me.

Model primed in Polly Scale Reefer White. Yellow is PS Reefer Yellow. Silver-Gray is my mix using 6 parts Model Master Acryl Silver and 1 parts MM Acryl Flat White.

Kit decals were used and for Russian decals, they were excellent. I had to nick them with an X-Acto in spots and touch up with paint, but nothing I would not have had to do with any aftermarket decal.

Red

Red Ruffensore · 6 February 2004, 01:45 PM

Starboard view.

7 February 2004, 02:59 AM

Beautiful job Red!
What did you use for rigging?

john ernst

7 February 2004, 03:12 AM

Hello Red!
A real feelings of nostalgia was in my head, when I,m seen Your fotos. I'm joined to the TOKO in 1997, when company intended to release a WW1 subjects. Until this time I'm saving test shots of the two first releases - Pfalz XII (moulded in green plastic) and SSW D.III/IV (black). It was a nice time, when we have only Aircraft Archive plans and nothing more. Color options of this Pfalz we INVENTED, because even Windsock magazine 7 years ago was something amazing. we decided, that if hans Klein had D.III in same painting, probably, he must had same D.XII!
In any case Your work is great. D.XII a super plane, what You think?
Alex. <_<

Red Ruffensore · 7 February 2004, 05:27 AM

Quote:

What did you use for rigging?

I used a 0.006-in smoke-colored invisible thread John. It is a very fine nylon monofiliament used in sports clothing such as bicycle shorts. You can have many good piece goods shop order it, it's made by Shakespere in Columbia, SC, same folks that make fishing monofilament.

Quote:

In any case Your work is great. D.XII a super plane, what You think?

Sure is Alex, very fun to fly in MS Combat Fight simulator too.

An excellent model Alex, did you help in the design? The only problem I had, well for me it was not a problem. The cabane struts have to be worked with very gently. I attached the two end struts in their proper locations, set the fuselage on the top wing and spread the pins the proper distance and let the cement set. I added a drop of super glue for insurance. Once set, I cemented the cabane and fuselage to the top wing. Doing so cause the middle fuselage mount to splay inward, something I have already noticed during dry fitting. I let the wing join set good, then carefullly bent and munipulated the center join to the fuselage. I did not take chances here, I attached it with super glue. The wing struts were also a little bit long in the straight sections, not the 'V' sections. It's amaxing how so little a length can buckle or throw something off. All I had to do was cut off the locating pins to each straight joint, 1-mm at the most! I then sanded where I cut so that the strut would fit into the location holes on the wing and all went well. It would be nice if we could find a way to do the landing gear struts and cabane and wing struts with white metal; they are so fragile, I feel most modelers could not handle them without breakage. I only broke one wing strut before the aforementioned alterations. But I'm an old hand, if I break something, I repair it. If it gets lost, I scratch build a replacement. It's only time and that's what modeling is to me, a way for me to meditate, I am far too active in my normal life.

Keep giving us those good stringbags from Roden, I hope to get the Nieuport 28 in Richmond in three weeks. Hope you scale that one down to my scale too.

Red

7 February 2004, 08:37 AM

Hello Red!
I'm starting my cooperation with TOKO, when Pfalz and SSW was almost completely ready. My first realwork was connected with Sopwith Snipe - third from TOKO's WW1 excellent line. When TOKO ended production in 1999 and all molds were sold to Russia, I'm been sorry mostly about 12 WW1 little beauty WW1 types. but I'm have so big "stocks" of each type!!!
This is a my TOKO's HB W.29, which was built just after it's release in 1998 - I'm know, decal is incorrect, but i'm can't find other choice... Figure of British pilot, which see on the captured plane - from old Airfix HP 0/400.

7 February 2004, 08:46 AM

Sorry, can't converted foto to the normal size -I'm not big specialist in computers...

Red Ruffensore · 7 February 2004, 08:54 AM

No problem Alex.

Quote:

My first realwork was connected with Sopwith Snipe - third from TOKO's WW1 excellent line.

Then I just finished your work last month! I posted a picture last month, it's probably down around page 4 or 5 now! here's another of your TOKO Snipe.

I have also built the W.29 and must take some good pictures of it. All I have currently were taken with my old H-P digital and not the quality I get with the CoolPix.

Red

RDosier · 7 February 2004, 01:55 PM

Great Job Red!
Nice to see a Pfalz XII done up. I have thought about picking this one up, now I know I need to. Again, very nice.

Red Ruffensore · 7 February 2004, 02:35 PM

A full review article will be up in Hyperscale soon. Except for the problems mentioned above, it was not a bad kit. using the above warning on the cabanes and wing struts, you should have no problem. The Russian plastic is very soft, but springy, so parts will bend before they break. But they are oh so small and fragile. When one see a D.XII in photos, it appears as a rather large fighter. But when compared with my 1/72 D.IIIa, one sees that it sits lower and has a sleeker look save for the bulbous radiator out front.

Red