









|
| Replica Aircraft Topics related to the construction of WWI replica aircraft |
11 April 2015, 08:22 AM
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#1
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabaster, AL
Posts: 2,511
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Okay, a little hint on that.
Here's how I did it with a minimum of curse words - and as you know I've put wings on a few times thus far in the build.
Hang the wings first, giving yourself about a full hands worth of space above where the front cabanes are with the tail down. Level the wings from whatever you're hanging them from.
My double sided tape and spirit levels worked a treat, but check them with a level on the top of the spar to make sure the tape isn't screwing them up.
Roll the fuselage under the wing, lining it up as best you can.
Raise the tail to flying position and check for orientation.
Move the fuselage around to match the wing. It might seem like wagging the dog instead of the tail, but it will pay off in the long run. You want the wing to rest perfectly at home on the cabanes without any sort of binding at this point when you'll be drilling holes where it fits.
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6 May 2015, 02:04 PM
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#2
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Forum Ace of Aces
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 3,050
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Bump - hope to have some update info after this weekend.
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Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
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10 May 2015, 06:37 PM
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#3
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Forum Ace of Aces
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 3,050
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Unfortunately, no work on the N17 at all. Saturday, we started looking into a broken mount for an air lift bag on my 1 ton truck that carries my slide in camper. When we got that out, I discovered the truck frame had cracked. Now I really have a problem.
Today I flew my wife down to Ocala to surprise mother for mother's day. We just popped up in church. The look on her face was priceless. Had a nice visit and lunch with family. Fortunately, the weather was nice for flying. I think I earned a few brownie points.
Work will continue on the cabane struts this week. (Not sure what I am going to do about the truck frame)
Dale
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Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
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11 May 2015, 07:25 AM
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#4
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabaster, AL
Posts: 2,511
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On the truck it's a discreet inquiry to the insurance company (who will probably laugh and say no), an estimate to see how much to weld it back (depending on where and how bad it might not be that much), and then, if those don't work out, the opportunity to get a brand new (to you) used truck.
[edit]
I hate you for flying, btw. No airplane available to me and it's been prime flying weather!
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19 May 2015, 06:34 AM
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#5
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Forum Ace of Aces
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 3,050
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I ran into an issue last evening when laying out the rear cabane assembly. The strut material is approx. 1 27/32" wide and the spar, 2". There are fore and aft plates that mount to the upper ends of the struts that sandwich the spar ends. As I see it, the gap between the plates will be 5/32" too narrow for the spar. You can see how the plates fit on the struts in the drawings I posted at #944.
What have you builders of the full size AA N17-27 done to resolve this? I called Robert, but was interested in what others have done.
Dale
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Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
Last edited by Bookmaker; 19 May 2015 at 08:05 AM.
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20 May 2015, 09:44 PM
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#6
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Forum Ace of Aces
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 3,050
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It doesn't seem like much from the photos, but after a lot of tinkering, figuring and contemplating, I have most of the parts for the rear cabane bipod ready to assemble.
The first project is to fit the smaller tubing in the larger tubing that matches what I now use for the front cabanes.
One riveted together, the other ready
The two "M" plates are bent 7 degrees to match the sweep of the wing spars (3.5 degrees per side). The lower attachment plates are shot with a little primer.
Finally as noted above, the smaller oval tubing is a fair bit smaller than the 2" spar that fits between the two "M" plates, so I devised spacers. I ordered 1/6", but it was slightly undersized, so I decided I needed 1/16" on one side of the strut material and 1/8" on the other. This seems to be just about right for a snug slip fit of the spar with no unnecessary pressure on the plates.
This photo shows the basic cut of the spacer. I will match the lower ends to the ends of the "M" plate.
Tomorrow I will try to get it all assembled.
I am also doing final measuring for the motor mount to be built.
Dale
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Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
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21 May 2015, 09:10 AM
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#7
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabaster, AL
Posts: 2,511
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Looks great!
You didn't like the engine mount that came with the kit?
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21 May 2015, 09:36 AM
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#8
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Forum Ace of Aces
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 3,050
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This WILL be the engine mount coming with the kit. I just have not had it made up yet.
I like the mount Robert made up for Chip's Pup. I just have to make sure my oil tank will clear, or modify the mount accordingly. Will measure that this evening. My oil tank was made by Rotec per my specs and mounts on the upper firewall behind the engine.
I have the mount parts that came with the engine in a box waiting for a couple sheets of drawings and measurements to close it up and send to Robert for fabrication.
Dale
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Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
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21 May 2015, 12:42 PM
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#9
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabaster, AL
Posts: 2,511
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Ah, the Rotex.
I got the standard mount pre-measured for a VW with mine in the Great Big Box.
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22 May 2015, 06:06 AM
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#10
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Forum Ace of Aces
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Marianna, Fl
Posts: 3,050
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I seem to make every thing I do on this project more complicated than it needs to be. After a tough day at work, I went out to get the "simple" measurements for the engine mount.
WRONG. After many measurements and holding things up to where I thought they should go, I went in to draw it out. OOPs, will that interfere with parts on the motor? What about the fittings on the oil tank, will they clear?
Maybe. Ok, let's rethink this.
I finally gave up and decided to start again this evening with a clean sheet.
Dale
__________________
Dale Cavin, Marianna, FL
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