Airdrome Nieuport 17 - Florida Version

[Bookmaker]

I spent the first part of the day doing some work for our flying club and cleaning out the "barn" enough so I had work room.

Then I build my build table. It's 3/4" particle board with a 2x4 perimeter frame and 2- 2x4s midway the length of the table. It's all screwed together with long sheet rock type screws.





The little white car is the one I built several years ago. It's called a Sebring 5000. The engine is a Chevy 358 (which I also built). The suspension is Ford.





The tag says "I BILTIT"

Tomorrow on to cutting circles and forms.

I'm currently celebrating my completed table with left-over Champaign and watching a DVD I got for Christmas - "Patton".

Dale

[Bookmaker]

WOHOO, Progress!!

First are the forms, 6, 12 and 24". After the photo, I screwed them to the table.



It's hard to see, but the rudder outline is laid out on paper at full size.



Part 1 of the outline bend.



Completed outline.



You may note that the leading edge bends are softened quite a bit from the AA plan. I wanted it a little closer to scale. I cleared this with Robert.

Two questions.

Where should the seam for the tubing insert at the splice be? I assume to the inside. Also, location of rivets into the insert?

How is the bottom of the rudder outline attached at the bottom? The plan does not say if it is inserted in a hole and screwed, or fits in a notch like at the top. Anyone know?

I should be able to finish this thing pretty quickly once I get those items resolved.

Dale

[Dart]

I can't see the pics at work - for some reason they're blocked.

So I don't know what you're referring to about the seam at the top, unless you're talking about the fishmouth at the top of the spar where the bow goes over it. In that case the fishmouth is flattened on the end; using a half inch drill bit inserted into the fishmouth and a rubber mallet works really well! Then you can cut down some of the ears that stick up and pound them around to where they meet at the top over the bow.

On rivet placement, it's all TLAR. Ditto the placement of the lower hinge inside the gusset.

The bottom of the bow fits into the spar via a hole drilled into the back side of it. Just slide it in until it can't go no further. Tension will hold it in place until you rivet in the gussets.

['14-'18aviationcollector]

Originally Posted by Bookmaker

I spent the first part of the day doing some work for our flying club and cleaning out the "barn" enough so I had work room.

Then I build my build table. It's 3/4" particle board with a 2x4 perimeter frame and 2- 2x4s midway the length of the table. It's all screwed together with long sheet rock type screws.





The little white car is the one I built several years ago. It's called a Sebring 5000. The engine is a Chevy 358 (which I also built). The suspension is Ford.





The tag says "I BILTIT"

Tomorrow on to cutting circles and forms.

I'm currently celebrating my completed table with left-over Champaign and watching a DVD I got for Christmas - "Patton".

Dale

Very nice! Aeroplane AND car P*0*R*N! Fantastic work Dale!

[Alkali Jones]

Hey Bookmaker,

That's what I'm talking about! Those pictures (to me, anyway) are up there with Baslee's youtube videos. It looks like you're doing a fine job, and I get to watch! Thanks,

Dan S

[Bookmaker]

Dan, don't watch too close. No telling what I can screw up.

By the way, I called Robert this morning about the questions I had. That is one laid back son of a gun

For other builders:

The seam of the splice insert doesn't really matter, but toward the inside is probably best since the rivets are along the outside edge.

The bottom hoop attachment is the same as the other end of the rudder hoop. Plug and insert it into a 1/2" hole at the bottom of the spar. But again, I don't think it really matters which way you attach it as what Dart said it gets attached by the side plates also.

After the photo, I made sure to slide the hinges on the spar so I didn't get excited and forget to add them before I screw and rivet everything together I also inserted the doubler that goes inside the spar. For the same reason.

Not sure what P*O*R*N stands for

Dale

[Dart]

Oh, I can see now (I'm at home) that your bow is in two pieces - my little N11 one was just one (until I broke it and made it two).

[Bookmaker]

OOPS!. I remember you mentioning you broke something, but assumed it was the sleeve inside the splice. Robert said the N17 rudder bow is shipped in 2 pieces to keep it from being so long. The splice area is pretty hard to form, but doesn't look bad.

I have the heaters running in my "barn" trying to warm it up a little. Then I'll spend an hour or so drilling, deburring and move a little farther.

Once I get the rudder frame finished, I'll probably have to set it aside until April 15. I am a CPA and things are going to start getting hot and heavy shortly. I am considering purchasing the rest of the kit and going on vacation to Missouri and spend a day or 2 at the "sweat farm". I can either borrow a trailer or rent a U Haul to bring it all back home. Of course that will have to be after April 15.

Someone on the builder forum suggested I get another kit to keep the fire alive. Since it is about $850 savings, I want to buy the remainder of the kit as a package. That's a day at the "farm". Maybe I'll get the optional gun kit to tide me over.

Dale

[Bookmaker]

Not a lot of progress, but WE HAVE RIVETS. This is probably pretty trivial to most of you, but it's a big first jump for me.









The outer frame is complete. I also started the control horn rib, but started getting tired and since there is a lot of compound mitering, and the horn holes are critical, I decided to quit.

Dale

[hank jarrett]

I wonder if Robert would send you some of the smaller kits to work on if you went ahead and paid for the whole thing. He could just hold the big parts there for after the 15th.
Hank

He usually seems pretty accommodating.