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| Models Topics related to WWI aircraft models. Forum is closed for posting. |
19 March 2005, 07:50 AM
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#31
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Shot Down
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,748
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I remember doing that to the old Aeroclub plastic struts when I did the 1/72 Staaken and think that this too can be done. The problem is that to channel the plastic strut cleanly and quickly you would need a Dremel motor tool. I have found that most newer Modelers here have yet to discover that great little item.
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20 March 2005, 07:36 AM
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#32
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Shot Down
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,748
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Greetings all; I was asked offline to clarify a couple of entries So when you read back through you will note some recent edits.
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21 March 2005, 06:18 PM
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#33
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NC USA
Posts: 1,471
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by StephenLawson
I remember doing that to the old Aeroclub plastic struts when I did the 1/72 Staaken and think that this too can be done. The problem is that to channel the plastic strut cleanly and quickly you would need a Dremel motor tool. I have found that most newer Modelers here have yet to discover that great little item.
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Stephen, I have had a Dremel for years but the speed is so fast that it melts the plastic! 5000 is the lowest speed! Do you know of a method to slow the RPMs?
RAGIII
__________________
Ricks Axioms: "A mans got to know his limitations" Harry Callahan.
"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler
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22 March 2005, 07:53 AM
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#34
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Shot Down
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,748
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I would recommend a variable speed motor tool to anyone but if the old two or three speed is all you have try light passes. like scoring a line. If you control the depth of your cut the speed won't eat as much of the plastic you want to keep.
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23 March 2005, 03:26 AM
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#35
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Guest
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I just purchased a cordless Dremel/Sears tool for under 30 USD. It has a low speed compared to the top sp of 2500 on my coded Dremel. The corded Dremel is 25 yrs old but is variable from low to the 2500 rpm.
I have a 10 yr old cordless but it died and the new battery is different.
Back to topic......I use a no. 11 Exacto to remove the plactic for the wire. I mean you don't have to go DEEP.
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13 April 2005, 07:18 PM
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#36
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Shot Down
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,748
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No worries folks. I haven't forgotten this thread just very very busy. More images soon.
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8 May 2005, 03:31 PM
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#37
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Shot Down
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,748
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Found a typo in the early post and have gone back to fix it.
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8 May 2005, 03:41 PM
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#38
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Shot Down
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 9,748
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According to the old Blue Rider decal set that included DDN in 1/48 scale the red stripes are 6/64ths of an inch. In 1/28 scale with a couple of minor anomalies in the wing they would be just under 11/64th of an inch or slightly less than .171. Note that the white stripes are a little lager than the red (or black if thats your choice.) at about 12-14 /64ths and you will need to begin at the referenced trailing edge rib spaces to beging the laying down of the red (or black if thats your choice)stripes to get them to lay correctly. The Blue rider decals are based on applications for the 1/48 DML / Dragon kit wing so again there was some concern for the Revell 1/28 application. But I found the math worked out pretty well.
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10 May 2005, 04:16 PM
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#39
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Forum Ace
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NEWPORT BEACH, CA, USA
Posts: 1,791
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Stephen,
Are there any recent pictures available yet of DDN, or a link to some?
Regards, Gary
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11 May 2005, 01:53 AM
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#40
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Guest
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Photos Stephen, Where are the photos ? Plus keep this thread at the top until I can get motovated.....I have several kits so will wait for the photos.
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